So, where did we go, apart from the generalised strolling, air-breathing and bench-sitting?
Many of Stockholm's attractions can be found on the island of Djurgarden (pronounced "Yoor-gorden"). The hop on-hop off boat we used stops here and so do a number of buses and trams. There is also the delightful old-fashioned tram, which stopped in the square outside our hotel. I loved this, though was disappointed that on the way there and back we weren't lucky enough to catch the tram which had a cafe carriage attached: I'd rather fancied the idea of tootling along with some coffee and cake to boot.
Once on Djurgarden there is a huge choice of ways to happily spend a day. The things we didn't do, but other families might enjoy, were Junibacken (a children's storybook attraction, based mainly on the stories of Astrid Lindgren who wrote the Pippi Longstocking books), Grona Lund amusement park (it was raining and it wasn't our thing anyway) and an aquarium. We didn't have time for the Nordiska Museet (a museum about Sweden's cultural history) or Liljevalchs (an art and design venue).
But we did visit the Vasa Museet, a museum incorporating the 17th century warship which sank in Stockholm harbour on its maiden voyage in 1628. Preserved for 300 years, it was raised again in 1961 and now forms the impressive centrepiece of this museum. Well worth seeing as it is far bigger than you'd expect and the museum gets the balance just right with regard to information for visitors.
We spent a bit of time at the Fotografiska (photography museum) where, once we had worked out how to get in and stay in, proved to be a popular place for locals owing to the fabulous top floor restaurant which had great views over the waterfront. While we were visiting they had a stunning collection of Olympic photographs, which whetted our appetite for the Games which were about to start in a few days' time.
But the unexpected highlight of the day was the very new Spritmuseum ( Spirit Museum) which, according to its literature, is "a unique meeting point focused on the Swedish people's bitter-sweet relationship to alcohol....you will be taken on an unforgettable journey from pain to pleasure, park bench to cocktail party, based on art, scenery, experience, smells and tastes". Rory pronounced this his favourite museum ever. Whilst we all had the chance to sniff numerous vodka variations (no tastings unfortunately when we were there), the museum is the temporary home for 'Face It!', 70 pieces from the Absolut Art Collection: works by artists such as Andy Warhol and Damien Hirst all based on the Absolut Vodka bottle. Just brilliant. We also loved the 'Finally Friday' exhibition, consisting of three rooms - Home, the Pub and the World of Dreams and the 'Sweden, Spirits of a Nation' section where we lay down to experience levels of drunkenness - stone cold sober, tipsy, loaded, hammered, wrecked and gone. Truly the most bonkers and creative museum I think I've ever visited. And to think, we only went in because we had half-price entry with the hop on, hop off boat ticket. Sometimes it pays to be married to a Scotsman.
Slideshow of photos from Spritmuseum below, but it doesn't seem to appear on mobile screens so apologies for that!
Glad you enjoyed the Vasa! It's definitely worth it, I think. I was all ready to write it off as being the Swedish Mary Rose but I think it's amazing and that's after three or four visits. Skansen is great but I think your made the right choice not to go - works better for families of little ones.
ReplyDeleteAnd now I MUST go to the Spritmuseum having read this. It sounds great. Did you take a drink on the terrace afterwards? The views from there are wonderful.
I feel better knowing we probably made the right choice about Skansen, particularly when there were swarms of people going in as we passed. We also spent some time just walking around Djurgarden; at one point searching for Rosendals Slott and constantly taking the wrong path.
DeleteIt was raining during our morning at the Spritmuseum so didn't sit on the terrace. Shame, but we only had one drizzly day and even then it was warm.
This is just making Stockholm even more magnetic as a travel destination.
ReplyDeleteIt wasn't as expensive as we'd thought...apart from alcohol, most things were the same as in the UK. I'd go again, so much to see.
DeleteFantastic post which just makes me want to travel to Scandinavia shores all the more! I think the Scots and the Indians have a lot in common when it comes to penny-pinching!
ReplyDeleteLook after the pennies and the pounds will look after themselves. With Dougie it's all about value: he doesn't mind splashing out if it's worth it but hates, for example, buying bottled water if we could have filled up from a tap!!
DeleteI like the idea of having afternoon tea on a tram whilst sightseeing. It is good to know that the museum have now got the balance right with the warship as obviously they didn't the first time in 1628.
ReplyDeleteOh that's good!! You do make me laugh.
DeleteApparently the boat was top heavy but they have also realised that the Swedish and Dutch shipbuilders worked with their own rulers, each with a slightly different measurement of a foot!I don't think it stood a chance.
I would have enjoyed everything you described - especially the Spritmuseum. MrL would have appreciated the discounted tickets, too. How exactly did they recreate the levels of drunkenness? I'm intrigued.
ReplyDeleteThe drunk room was the one where you lay down on the special seats and watched a weird video on the ceiling. It showed what happens on a night out and the filming was such that you shared the experience with them. Mind you, it was so nice to lie down, I think I shut my eyes and drifted off!
DeleteTh Queenager has a thing about Sweden and we want to do about a 3 day visit next year. Most enticing.
ReplyDeleteI have to say
1) impressed with the slide show
and
2) thought the lads were urinating into something in one of the photos, and
3) then I remembered that a Sacred Heart lass would never have allowed that!! (Let alone a Conway!)
Shame slideshow doesn't seem to work on iPad. No idea why. IT's very easy to do with the Picasa albums on Blogger.
DeleteUrinating?! Haha! Goodness me, no I wouldn't have allowed that and they wouldn't have allowed me to take a photo of it! They were sniffing the different vodkas.
Sounds like a really fabulous place to visit.....and tea on a tram? great idea!
ReplyDeleteOn one afternoon we sat outside the hotel where they served drinks and just watched the tram arriving and departing: so sweet with the bell ringing. The tea/coffee carriage looked lovely and there was a waitress who flitted between the carriages to serve people. So charming.
DeleteBrilliant! Love the pictures, the Spirit Museum sounds great! :)
ReplyDeleteI think when something is unexpected it is far more enjoyable. We just wandered in and took it at face value. The artwork was fantastic.
DeleteThe Spirit Museum looks very very cool and groovy indeed and I would need to do my own tasting afterwards (and yes...whatever did happen to general strolling) Link to you on my blog today, thanks for shout out on BritMums! (PS what do you think about twitter, I have resisted doing it - is it fun?)
ReplyDeleteTwitter is good once you get the hang of it and once you've built up a decent number of people to follow and engage with. I tend to not be a huge user of Twitter but it's great for linking blogs and getting messages to people. I was able to tweet everybody who I'd mentioned in the BritMums round-up much quicker than emailing or putting message on their blog. It's worth dipping your toe in and then seeing what you want to do with it.
DeleteWe loved the Vasa, I can smell it as I read your description - so distinctive - we even bought a candle in a tin to recreate the aroma back in Lincolnshire!! How did we miss the vodka ??!!
ReplyDeleteOf course, I forgot to mention the smell...very humid and earthy. I didn't know they sold candles to match. May have to have a sniff sometime! The vodka museum only opened in May this year.
DeleteMy son would love the Spirit Museum! What luck that you ended up there. The ship looked cool too.
ReplyDeleteSorry this is a bit late in the day but just back from hols so catching up. :)
I enjoyed reading your holiday posts in one go: quite a good way to do it. Mine seem to be going on forever, even though I tried to tell myself I didn't need a post for each day.
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